Blood Angel Fire Raptor - Week...no idea
The quality of my weekend is normally measured by the amount of hobbying I get done... and this weekend has been fantastic!
I've made some tangible progress on my Fire Raptor having:
1. Put down all of my gold stencils
2. Edge highlighted reds and golds all over
3. Painted the canopy with Tamiya smoke and attached the cockpit roof
4. Varnished everything ready to start weathering
There are issues with the model but to be honest I've learnt not to be so picky. I'll cover a few of the issues up when the weathering starts and I have to say, I'm pleased with how the model if looking.
It has not been without it's difficulties.
1. Fallout hobby decals are not as user-friendly as GW decals. They aren't individually cut and it just seems a little harder to get the backing to be invisible after the micros - they need patience.
2. I've had a nightmare with varnish frosting on the model. Having tried both Vallejo satin and Humbrol clear matt (both of which destroyed the model leaving frosty residue all over), I finally got things to a good place using Testor's Dullcote at the expense of losing the sheen on all my metallics.
.In retrospect, I do think that the issue was to do with humidity...yesterday was very hot, very damp and very cloudy so I believe this is probably the worst environment to try and use anything other than gloss varnish...or Testor's!
3. Scale 75 Golds are amazing...but require a completely different mix with thinners. I made the mistake of thinning my Elven Gold down too much. This resulted in the paint bleeding through my stencils leaving a nasty gold splodge As a result, i had to start all over again.
4. Vallejo airbrush thinner, when applied to a cotton bud, is perfect for removing errors - providing you have varnished before hand. I had a few instances where either the stencils or my highlights were poor. I was able to completely remove the paint by wiping it with a cotton bud soaked in thinner.
5. Fallout hobby stencils are fantastic. If any of the gold trimming looks bad then it is a result of my poor paint consistency and not the decals....I highly recommend them.
6. Varnish is your friend if you want to preserve your paint job. What I mean by this is that I've handled the model very heavily over the last few days. By applying Testor's on new areas that i've painted (i.e. highlights) i can protect the edges and not lose the paint.
7. Tamiya clear paints are awesome for your canopy. The trick however is to add thin, watered down coats (10 coats - use a hairdryer to speed the process up) and you add them to the OUTSIDE not the inside. The result of failing to follow this advice meant that my canopy is a little too dark as I painted the inside first, and then the outside afterwards.
So...the next steps now are some delicate chipping and scratches, re-entry burns on the front and the wings, and some minor streaking on parts of the airframe. Im using Model Master class volume 2 as my guide for this step.
Enjoy the photos.
I've made some tangible progress on my Fire Raptor having:
1. Put down all of my gold stencils
2. Edge highlighted reds and golds all over
3. Painted the canopy with Tamiya smoke and attached the cockpit roof
4. Varnished everything ready to start weathering
There are issues with the model but to be honest I've learnt not to be so picky. I'll cover a few of the issues up when the weathering starts and I have to say, I'm pleased with how the model if looking.
It has not been without it's difficulties.
1. Fallout hobby decals are not as user-friendly as GW decals. They aren't individually cut and it just seems a little harder to get the backing to be invisible after the micros - they need patience.
2. I've had a nightmare with varnish frosting on the model. Having tried both Vallejo satin and Humbrol clear matt (both of which destroyed the model leaving frosty residue all over), I finally got things to a good place using Testor's Dullcote at the expense of losing the sheen on all my metallics.
.In retrospect, I do think that the issue was to do with humidity...yesterday was very hot, very damp and very cloudy so I believe this is probably the worst environment to try and use anything other than gloss varnish...or Testor's!
3. Scale 75 Golds are amazing...but require a completely different mix with thinners. I made the mistake of thinning my Elven Gold down too much. This resulted in the paint bleeding through my stencils leaving a nasty gold splodge As a result, i had to start all over again.
4. Vallejo airbrush thinner, when applied to a cotton bud, is perfect for removing errors - providing you have varnished before hand. I had a few instances where either the stencils or my highlights were poor. I was able to completely remove the paint by wiping it with a cotton bud soaked in thinner.
5. Fallout hobby stencils are fantastic. If any of the gold trimming looks bad then it is a result of my poor paint consistency and not the decals....I highly recommend them.
6. Varnish is your friend if you want to preserve your paint job. What I mean by this is that I've handled the model very heavily over the last few days. By applying Testor's on new areas that i've painted (i.e. highlights) i can protect the edges and not lose the paint.
7. Tamiya clear paints are awesome for your canopy. The trick however is to add thin, watered down coats (10 coats - use a hairdryer to speed the process up) and you add them to the OUTSIDE not the inside. The result of failing to follow this advice meant that my canopy is a little too dark as I painted the inside first, and then the outside afterwards.
So...the next steps now are some delicate chipping and scratches, re-entry burns on the front and the wings, and some minor streaking on parts of the airframe. Im using Model Master class volume 2 as my guide for this step.
Enjoy the photos.
Comments
Post a Comment