Dark Angels Fellblade
Well, here it is; my Dark Angels Fellblade now completed as a centrepiece for my 10k Army.
I don't know really where to start with this, but let's just say that I am really happy with how this has turned out.
I asked quite a lot of myself to complete my first airbrush project (after the initial MKA Studio training course) to work straight on this model, and the result was that this model has been re-primed 3 times in order to correct mistakes that I've made.
Nevertheless, working with air brushes is a very forgiving task because even if you do re-spray, you don't get any loss of detail as the layers are so thin
This entire model therefore encompasses more learnings/techniques than I could ever have the time to note down on this blog. So, for now I will summarise the key learnings:
1) ALWAYS scrub your resin to remove the releasing agent. If you don't, then paint WILL come off with even a low-tac masking tape
2) ALWAYS use a good primer. Vallejo air primers are not strong enough (for resin at least) you need something durable like Chaos black or Halfords White/Grey Primers.
3) Never fix guns, tracks or exhausts until ready to start weathering. There is no need and it makes things a lot harder to paint.
4) Citadel paints are NOT great for air brushes. Whether the new Citadel Air paints are great, remain to be seen - but having now found what I like with Vallejo then I don't want to confuse things by mixing up suppliers more than I need to.
5) The "Inktensity" set from Scale 75 is amazing. You add 2-3 drops of this stuff to your base colours (whether brushed or sprayed) and they add a phenomenal amount of colour to your model....see the brown on my heat bloom for an example
6) Purity Seal is getting harder and harder to use. I would personally counsel that people find an alternative low gloss/satin/matt spray varnish as the risk of clouding is less....bottom line is that my model clouded. I managed to rescue it, but there is still a "ghost" of cloudiness in places
7) Weathering powders can never bee completely fixed. They can be lightly held in place by spirits, but if you want a "powder" effect rather than a smudge, you will never be able to completely fix them so handle with car
There's not much left of my Dark Angels now. I'm looking forward to finishing 10 x assault marines, 12 x bikes, 2 x attack bikes and 2 x speeders - which is still a fair amount.
Once this is complete I will move on, with dignity, to my new army which will be my 30k Blood Angels. I like to think that I won't buy any more dark angels after this. :-)
With the new Heresy Book VI coming out before Christmas - it feels like perfect timing
What am I not happy with on here?:
1) I think I could have been a little more adventurous with transfers...I was partially failed by the fact that the new GW Dark Angel transfers have sold out which is gutting
2) Rain streaks on the weathering....I could have managed a few more
3) Shading: Ideally the gradient that I achieved on the sides of the tank would have been replicated on the turret...I just didn't get the top of it as light as I wanted
Outside of that, I'm really proud of this model and it represents the next step that I want to achieve going forward...if my Grey Knights were the benchmark for my old style, this is the start point for new things to come.
Finally - all I want to do now is get this on the table for a game...I just need to see this model on a beautiful board...facing a hoard of Xenos
I don't know really where to start with this, but let's just say that I am really happy with how this has turned out.
I asked quite a lot of myself to complete my first airbrush project (after the initial MKA Studio training course) to work straight on this model, and the result was that this model has been re-primed 3 times in order to correct mistakes that I've made.
Nevertheless, working with air brushes is a very forgiving task because even if you do re-spray, you don't get any loss of detail as the layers are so thin
This entire model therefore encompasses more learnings/techniques than I could ever have the time to note down on this blog. So, for now I will summarise the key learnings:
1) ALWAYS scrub your resin to remove the releasing agent. If you don't, then paint WILL come off with even a low-tac masking tape
2) ALWAYS use a good primer. Vallejo air primers are not strong enough (for resin at least) you need something durable like Chaos black or Halfords White/Grey Primers.
3) Never fix guns, tracks or exhausts until ready to start weathering. There is no need and it makes things a lot harder to paint.
4) Citadel paints are NOT great for air brushes. Whether the new Citadel Air paints are great, remain to be seen - but having now found what I like with Vallejo then I don't want to confuse things by mixing up suppliers more than I need to.
5) The "Inktensity" set from Scale 75 is amazing. You add 2-3 drops of this stuff to your base colours (whether brushed or sprayed) and they add a phenomenal amount of colour to your model....see the brown on my heat bloom for an example
6) Purity Seal is getting harder and harder to use. I would personally counsel that people find an alternative low gloss/satin/matt spray varnish as the risk of clouding is less....bottom line is that my model clouded. I managed to rescue it, but there is still a "ghost" of cloudiness in places
7) Weathering powders can never bee completely fixed. They can be lightly held in place by spirits, but if you want a "powder" effect rather than a smudge, you will never be able to completely fix them so handle with car
There's not much left of my Dark Angels now. I'm looking forward to finishing 10 x assault marines, 12 x bikes, 2 x attack bikes and 2 x speeders - which is still a fair amount.
Once this is complete I will move on, with dignity, to my new army which will be my 30k Blood Angels. I like to think that I won't buy any more dark angels after this. :-)
With the new Heresy Book VI coming out before Christmas - it feels like perfect timing
What am I not happy with on here?:
1) I think I could have been a little more adventurous with transfers...I was partially failed by the fact that the new GW Dark Angel transfers have sold out which is gutting
2) Rain streaks on the weathering....I could have managed a few more
3) Shading: Ideally the gradient that I achieved on the sides of the tank would have been replicated on the turret...I just didn't get the top of it as light as I wanted
Outside of that, I'm really proud of this model and it represents the next step that I want to achieve going forward...if my Grey Knights were the benchmark for my old style, this is the start point for new things to come.
Finally - all I want to do now is get this on the table for a game...I just need to see this model on a beautiful board...facing a hoard of Xenos
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